Saturday, September 15, 2012

When the bazaar was on fire


Dushanbe is the Tajik word for Monday.  The Soviets selected the site of the “Monday  Bazaar” or “Dushanbe Bazaar” to build the capital of Tajikistan.  Before I arrived, a few people warned me against staying in Dushanbe since it was a concrete jungle, where no one will speak to you on the street.  To me, Dushanbe is a great mix of city and country.  Inside stores, homes, and libraries, people are welcoming and patient.  Outside, in buses, open markets, and walking home, people keep their distance, and I am fine with that as well.

Still the city feels small enough to bump up against the daily trials and triumphs of those around me.  Walking home from services at Jamatkhane last week, I saw a huge plume of smoke.  Larger than a plume – this was a massive, assaulting mega cloud of purple and gray and it felt much more ominous than rain.  It was so odd that I made a mental note of it.  Later that evening, my host family told me there was a fire in Korvon, the largest bazaar in Dushanbe.  Many fine rugs, wood carvings and antiques had been looted or burned from a whole stretch of stalls.  Apparently, this happened many times a year.

The next morning was a Thursday.  I stepped out of the National Library, where I work on the fourth floor, around 11:30 AM after a morning session at the American Corner.   The Library is within a few blocks of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Presidential Palace and the Mayor’s Office so it was a central spot to meet with my new Tajik tutor.  We sat on a bench opposite the row of identical fountains lining the pathway. 

After around 15 minutes of chatting, my tutor, who is about 45 and wears the same golden Tajik tunic at each of our lessons, kept darting looks behind me.  I kept looking over my shoulder and didn’t notice a thing.  I felt as though she was spotting ghosts.  Another five minutes passed and the swarm of people gathering, shouting and calling the name of God, attracted due attention from everyone around us.   By the time I turned back to face my tutor, she had already picked herself and her bags up off the bench and ushered me to follow away from the crowd.  From a safe distance, we turned around to watch the ensuing punches the crowd was throwing.  Their anger was directed toward the policemen restraining them at first, and then it turned on each other.   The most dire snapshot from this chaotic scene that I can recall was of a stress-ridden young lady, maybe in her late 20s, slouching on another lady and throwing tired punches into the air while yelling at the top of her lungs at a police officer as he poked her and her supportive friend away using the tip of his baton. 

By this time, my Tajik tutor had asked a passerby about the situation.  She informed us that at the center of the crowd were young shopowners whose entire livelihoods had burned in the bazaar.  They had taken their grievances to the Mayor’s office, but were quickly batted away by the city police, unable to even meet the Mayor.  In such a situation, no Tajik is guaranteed money from the city or insurance, although they pay monthly fees to both to maintain their bazaar stalls.   Some speculated it was a way for the city to commandeer land without having to pay landowners.

At that moment, I realized my tutor and I were watching some of the deeper wounds of the people of Dushanbe being salted.  I knew I should leave, but as a natural reaction, I stayed on a little longer to watch.  My tutor had retreated 50 feet behind of me and two men shoved me as they ran toward the mob.  I knew I had to leave right then, even though I didn’t feel personally threatened or in any danger.  I just wanted to see the slouching lady once more to know if she had hit her target, or had finally collapsed under the weight of her situation.

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